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Jewellery design has gone through some changes since the recession started to bite. Diamonds got smaller, used as pave threads around gems rather than being the centrepiece, and precious and semi precious gemstones got more colourful too but also smaller. This Autumn colour is still the hot story but the gemstones are big and splashy*, with lots of orange and red stones such as orange opals, mandarin garnets and pink sapphires (always popular), as well as a smattering of green emeralds and soft blue aquamarines. And where yellow gold is usually the standard setting for jewels, now, because of its current astronomic price (around $1700 an ounce) jewellers are using more platinum and silver for setting these colourful gems. Platinum was a jewellery favourite in the Thirties because it set off the Art Deco black and white designs so well and silver, although it has risen in price, is a fraction of the price of gold. You can still buy the original Thirties jewellery and other later, mid century designs (which are coming back into fashion) at the London Silver Vaults

where several dealers specialise in vintage and antique jewellery as well as promoting new jewellery design. Belmont has an Art Deco eternity ring with a full ruby channel set in platinum for £800. Wolfe has a Victorian deep blue enamelled heart pendant edged with tiny pearls and decorated with a silver bow of tiny diamonds for £1,750. William Walter has a retro silver filigree necklace with marcasite and four, deep maroon garnets for £140 and a colourful silver bangle set with lots of different agate stones for £450 (pictured). Nat Leslie stocks the contemporary Moonlight Collection by Sheila Fleet which features earrings and necklaces using opals, silver and blue hand enamelling. At the beginning of October these and many more colourful gems will be centre stage in the Silver Vaults’ 'Seasonal Sparkle' Christmas Gift display of attractive silver gifts in the foyer and online. All items are for sale. *Financial Times: Watches & Jewellery 8 Sep 2012